Is a Rabbit Right for YOU?

Before going out to a store or hopefully a shelter and picking up a brand-spanking new bunny, it's important to consider whether or not you are truly able to care for a rabbit.

Loveable Bunny vs Quiet House Guest. If you are looking for a pet that will cuddle and play, a rabbit is not the pet you are looking for. Rabbits are typically shy and timid and most rabbits do not like being picked up or held. There are some bunny parents who are lucky enough to have an outgoing and vivacious bunny who enjoys sitting in a human lap or cuddled, but this is not the norm.

The Ticking Clock. The second consideration is whether or not you have the time to really take care of a bunny. While a bunny's care time is significantly less than that of a dog, time is required. Spending a lot of time with your bunny will allow him to get used to your presence and therefore more comfortable with you. It's necessary to feed your bunny twice a day, replenish his hay stack daily, clean his litter box at least every other day, and clean the entire cage weekly. In addition to the every day maintenance, I always find myself spending chunks of my time looking for or making toys for my bunny so he doesn't get bored in his cage, remodeling his home so that it fits him as he is growing, and trying to train him. It is also important to note that it is very hard to go out of town while you have a bunny at home. It is always possible to bring him with you but preparing for the trip will be a little more difficult and you will definitely have a lot more stuff to bring with you. Also, rabbits can live up to 12 years with good care. Be sure you are in for the long haul!

Spacious Abode. It is key to make sure you have to space for a rabbit in your home. I prefer to keep my rabbit indoors since I live in Texas and it gets really hot outside during the spring and the summer and because opossums and raccoons often hassle caged animals and bunnies can die of fright especially if he is caged and cannot escape his abusers. The rabbit will need room for a good sized cage and storage space for all his stuff. It's also nice (but not entirely necessary) if you have a yard or a fenced area outside where you can let your bunny run free (while you supervise) for a little bit. If you don't have a yard, there are always other options for getting your bunny outside and in the fresh air safely.

Moo-lah. The last consideration is if you have the funds to care for a rabbit. A good store-bought cage can easily be over $100. Good pellet food for rabbits can range from $5 to $25 and a bale of hay that will last a week or less will cost $5. Your rabbit will also need to have veggies, toys, and other care-giving items. Eventually, it may cost up to $200 for start-up costs. If you choose to go to a pet store and buy your rabbit, it will most likely cost $90 to $100. Most animal shelters will also charge you an adoption fee that covers any shots that the rabbit has had and cover the cost of spaying or neutering the rabbit.

Warning. Let me also say that I don't think a rabbit is a good pet for a child because they are big responsibilities. Most rabbits that are in the shelters were originally Easter gifts that turned out to be a bigger hassle than the parents and the children bargained for. Children expect to be able to hold rabbits because they are cute and fuzzy but most rabbits will try and escape when handled. I personally have gotten some nasty scratches from my bunny when trying to remove him from his cage for weekly cage cleanings. If you are looking into getting a rabbit for a child, make sure you realize that it is very likely that you or the child's parents are ultimately going to be taking care of the rabbit.

All in all, deciding to have a rabbit is a big decision. Make sure you are up for the challenge.

Where is my Bunny?!

Once you make the commitment to take care of a rabbit, the next step is deciding where to get your rabbit. There are three places (that I know of) where you can get a rabbit - the pet store, the animal shelter, and other rabbit owners. .

Pet Store. The pet store is an obvious choice for animal acquisitions but it is not always the best choice. When I started looking for a rabbit to buy, I noticed that there were no rabbits to be found in most pet stores (petsmart and petco). So, I researched it. Many pet stores were banned from selling rabbits because the accommodations for the rabbits were so terrible. Rabbits are often kept in cages that are intended for dwarf hamsters and the cages are not cleaned as regularly as needed. Pet store rabbits may also be sold sick because the salespeople are unaware of any condition or sickness that the bunny may have. Most pet store bunnies come from bunny mills where rabbits are allowed to breed in mass quantities and the quality of their care cannot be accounted for. Baby bunnies are often separated from their mothers before they are weaned at 6 weeks and sold to stores so that they will be cute and desirable. This practice often leads to bunnies with weaker immune systems and more health problems. If you are intent on getting your bunny from a pet store, research rabbit care as much as you can and interview the salesperson before you buy and make sure they know what they are talking about. Ask for the age of the rabbit (they have to be at least 6 weeks old), breed, gender, general care instructions. If the salesperson cannot answer these questions with ease, DO NOT buy the rabbit no matter how cute he is. If the salesperson seems credible and you are comfortable with purchasing from the pet store, make sure you don't let the sales person talk you into buying items that you don't need like vitamins (bunnies don't need vitamins), salt licks, etc. These bunnies will range in cost by breed but the ones that I have seen are approximately $100. It's so expensive because the stores claim (maybe truthfully) that the bunnies are purebred.

Animal Shelter. The second choice for rabbit acquisition is the animal shelter. This definitely a better option than the pet store (in my opinion). Rabbits are generally older and have had proper veterinary care. Some people don't really want to adopt a bunny from the animal shelter because are no longer babies and they think that the older rabbit will not "imprint" on them and love them as much as a baby bunny would. The truth is, baby bunnies will not "imprint" on new owners any more than older bunnies and the amount of love that the bunny feels for you depends on the personality of the bunny and the quality of care you provide. The great thing about shelter bunnies is that they have already developed a personality, unlike most baby bunnies. Most of the volunteers who work with the rabbits on a regular basis will be familiar with their personality quirks and will steer you towards a bunny that fits with you. Another plus to adopting a shelter bunny (and it's a big plus) is that the majority of them will have been spayed or neutered. That means that you don't have to shell out the big bucks for the surgery later. One things about shelter bunnies is that they often come in a bonded pair. This means that two bunnies have lived closely with each other and would not be happy if separated. If you are not ready to commit to two bunnies, try and find a rabbit who is either new to the shelter and came in alone or one that is a loner. The adoption fee can range anywhere from $20 - $60 and sometimes the fee is optional and they ask that you give any amount you can to help keep the shelter running.

Other Rabbit Owners. The third choice is craigslist.org or some similar site where rabbit owners can post rabbits that are available. The people who typically post rabbits for sale on these types of sites are either a.) breeders who know their stuff, b.) families who realized too late that the two bunnies they had in the same cage were not altered and that they were different genders, and c.) people who can no longer take care of the rabbit that they have and don't want to send them to the shelter. The important thing in this process is to make sure that the bunnies were treated well and are healthy. It's also important to ask the seller if the rabbit has had any health problems that they are aware of. Also, make sure that baby bunnies are at least 6 weeks old and weaned from his mother. My bunny was a mama's boy and stayed with him mama for 8 weeks. The sellers usually ask for a re-homing fee that will be around $15 - $30.

I'm sure there are a lot of other places to get a rabbit (FFA carnivals, etc.) but I am not familiar with them.

Good luck in your bunny search!

A Shelter in Every State

I thought it would be helpful if I found some shelters in each state that houses rabbits. Please contact these shelters to see if your future bunny is waiting for you there!

Alabama
Alabama EARS

Alaska
Meadow Gates Farm Sanctuary

Arizona
Brambley Hedge Rabbit Rescue
East Valley Bunny Rescue

Arkansas

California
Bunny Luv
Rabbit Rescue, Inc.
Rabbit Row
Zooh Corner Rabbit Rescue

Colorado
Colorado House Rabbit Society

Connecticut
Rabbit House Network
The House Rabbit Connection, Inc.

Delaware

Florida
House Rabbit Adoption, Rescue, and Education
Tampa Bay House Rabbit Society

Georgia

Hawaii

Idaho

Illinois
Chicago House Rabbit Society
Red Door Animal Shelter

Indiana
Indiana House Rabbit Society

Iowa

Kansas

Kentucky

Louisiana
Louisiana SPCA

Maine

Maryland
Bunny Magic
House Rabbit Society of Maryland and Surrounding Areas

Massachusetts
Foster For Forever Homes
Rabbit House Network

Michigan
Michigan House Rabbit Society
Michigan Rabbit Rescue

Minnesota
Minnesota Companion Rabbit Society

Mississippi

Missouri

Montana

Nebraska

Nevada

New Hampshire
House Rabbit Society

New Jersey
New Jersey House Rabbit Society

New Mexico

New York
Rabbit Rescue and Rehab

North Carolina

North Dakota

Ohio
Buckeye House Rabbit Society
Columbus House Rabbit Society

Oklahoma
Hope for Pets

Oregon
Rabbit Advocates

Pennsylvania
The Rabbit Habit

Rhode Island
Sweet Binks Rabbit Rescue

South Carolina
Bunny Haven Rescue

South Dakota

Tennessee

Texas
Bunny Buddies
House Rabbit Resource Network
North Texas Rabbit Sanctuary
Wild Rescue, Inc.

Utah

Vermont

Virginia
Bunny Lu Adoptions, Inc.

Washington
Evergreen Rabbit Rescue
Rabbit Haven

West Virginia

Wisconsin
Wisconsin House Rabbit Society

Wyoming


These were the only shelters with good websites that I could find. I will keep looking and posting shelters and sanctuaries that I like. If you know of any good groups that I have left out, please email artemispethelp@gmail.com with the information. Thanks!

Bunny Breeds That Fit Your Needs

You probably already know what you want your future bunny to look like. Now, all you have to do is find the perfect one. The problem is, what bunny are you actually picturing? Most people would go to the pet store or hopefully the shelter and look at all the available bunnies and pick the cutest one. The problem is, some rabbits need more care than others and it's very important to be informed about the rabbit breed you are committing to. Rabbit breeds vary in size, weight, coloration, hair length and quality, ear length and positioning, and eye color. Some of these traits (mainly size and hair length and quality) will factor into how you are going to care for your rabbit while other traits are just for aesthetics.

Size Matters. Rabbits come in all sizes from dwarf (2.5 lbs) to giant (16 lbs). I will categorize all the rabbit breeds that I know based on size because that was my main consideration when choosing my bunny.

Dwarf Breeds

American Fuzzy Lop (3 to 4 lbs)

Fuzzy Lops have a flat face and large lopped ears. They have a long dense coat and are available in many colors. Their hair is somewhat more coarse than other rabbits so it does not mat as easily as other long-haired rabbits. But, since Fuzzy Lop have a longer coat, it is necessary to brush and groom this bunny daily. The temperament of this breed is extremely varied from loving to skittish. Male Fuzzy Lops tend to be calmer while the females seem to be a little more shy.

Britannia Petite (2.5 lbs maximum)

Britannia Petite is the smallest of the common breeds. They have a short coat and are typically white with red eyes in the US. They should be groomed at least once a week. This rabbit is more hyper and tend to nip more than other rabbits. They are very curious and therefore tend to get into more trouble. They will need a lot of toys and human interaction so that they won't get bored. With this breed, it is extremely important to bunny proof your house and to watch him constantly when they is allowed to roam.

Dwarf Hotot (2.5 lbs maximum)

This breed of rabbit is typically white with thick black markings around its eyes. His coat is short so weekly grooming sessions should suffice. This rabbit has short upright ears and a round compact body. Dwarf Hotots are generally very calm and enjoy attention. These little guys hail from Germany and are becoming more common.

Holland Lop (4 lbs maximum)

These Holland Lops come in many different colors, have short lopped ears, a flat face, and deeply set eyes. They have a medium coat which means that a biweekly grooming may be necessary. This breed of rabbit is generally calm but the females are easily startled.

Small Breeds

Dutch (3.5 to 5.5 lbs)

These small breed rabbits have white noses, chests, and underbellies, and have dark ears, cheeks, and hindquarters. This was the most popular breed of rabbit before dwarf rabbits were introduced. They have a short coat that may only need to be froomed during shedding season. These rabbits are even tempered and great starter rabbit.

Florida White (4 to 6 lbs)

These rabbits look a lot like Britannia Petite rabbits but are at least twice as big. Pure white is the only flavor that these bunnies come in. They have upright ears, red eyes and a short coat. Brush this rabbit once a week and his coat will stay nice and shiny.

Havana (4.5 to 6.5 lbs)

Havanas come in black, chocolate, or blue. Their coloration is very intense compared to other rabbits and their coat is the shiniest in all the rabbit kingdoms! These rabbits have very distinct personalities and are very personable. They make great companion pets. Grooming is needed once a week or less because of their short, sleek hair.

Himalayan (2.5 to 4.5 lbs)

These bunnies have a distinct coloration pattern. They have white bodies with black ears, muzzles, and paws. They have an extremely long and narrow body with medium sized ears plastered to its body. The eyes are generally pink and their coat is short and easily groomed. This rabbit is very tolerant of any disturbances so if you choose to adopt a pet rabbit for a child (which I do not recommend) this is the best rabbit to get.

Mini Rex (3 to 4.5 lbs)

Mini Rex is known for his velvety coat. His coat is short and plush and will require grooming. Do NOT use a brush on this rabbit unless there is a distinct tangle! Instead, slightly wet the palms of your hands, then run them on your rabbit in the opposite direction of hair growth. This will remove the loose hairs and should be done weekly. This bunny has a great attitude and are very active.

Medium Breeds

English Spot (5 to 8 lbs)

This rabbit has the body shape similar to a wild hare. They are white with darker markings and have short, easily maintained coats. It may only be necessary to groom and brush this rabbit during shedding season. These rabbits are very tame and very laid back.

Large Breed

American Sables (7 to 10 lbs)

These larger rabbits have various shades of sepia in their coat and amber colored etes. These bunnies tend to shed in patches and for a long period of time. This means that they should be groomed and brushed at least twice a week. They are known to be very friendly and responsive.

Giant Breeds

Flemish Giant (16 lbs maximum)

Welcome the gentle giants! These burly bunnies are very solid and strong. They are calm and like to be petted. They should be groomed throughly every week with a brush. Because of their size, their diet is slightly different from other rabbits. Some of these big guys loved to be walked.

Since most people typically adopt dwarf or small rabbits, I will focus on the care of these rabbits. Most of this information also applies to larger rabbits but food quantities should be altered. If you need information about any other sized rabbit, please email artemispethelp@gmail.com.

Things To Do Before Bringing Home Bunny

Here is an overview of things to do BEFORE bring home your new bunny. It's important to have everything ready for your new roommate so it reduces the stress of moving for you and your new rabbit.

1. Make room for your rabbit. It's important to designate a space for the rabbit where you can put his cage and all his stuff. Bunnies like to chew on cords so it's better if you don't place the cage anywhere near extension cords or any sort of plug in. Even if you think that the rabbit can't get to it, he probably can.

2. Bunny proof your house. This is only important if you plan on letting your rabbit run around your house instead of making a little play pen area where he cannot get out and make trouble. Also, if the area that you designated as your rabbits is near wires and cords and it cannot be helped, you should take the extra precaution and bunny proof the area.

3. Buy or make a rabbit condo. If you choose to buy a cage, make sure that the bottom of the cage is not made of uncovered metal wire (like chicken wire). This will hurt your bunny's feet. Also make sure that the grids are small enough so that bunny's legs cannot accidentally slip in and get caught. It is also an option to build a bunny condo. It is cheaper and you can change the design of the condo when your rabbit gets bigger.

4. Buy supplies. Your rabbit will need a few essentials like a water bottle, a food bowl, a litter box, hay, and food. It's also a good time to look around for any toys that you can find. Since there is not a big bunny toy market, I typically find some smaller dog or cat toys that can be converted.

These are the main things that you should do before picking up your bunny.

Bunny Shopping List

These are somethings that you will need for your new rabbit. I have done a little comparative shopping for you all online but I'm pretty sure that you can get some of this stuff a little cheaper.

1. If you want to build a bunny condo, you will need:

- 3 packs of 100 count 4" zip ties ($1.50/pack)
- 2 boxes of wire grid storage cubes ($18.88/pack at Walmart)
- 1 roll of 3' x 25' poultry fence ($14.98/roll at Home Depot)
- 3 cotton bath towels ($2.00/ea)
- 2 boxes of medium binder clips ($1.29/box at Office Depot)
- 20 standard sized bricks (0.50/brick)
- 2 bathroom shower liners ($2.00/ea)

TOTAL: $79.82

2. These are essential condo accessories:

- water bottle ($5.49 for 16 oz at Petsmart)
- heavy bowl for pellets ($2.99 for 4.5" x 1.75" at Petsmart)
- litter box ($4.99 for 14" x 10.25" at Petsmart)
- box of 12 count kitty litter box liners ($3.99/box at Petco)

TOTAL: $17.46

3. Your bunny needs the following things in his diet:

- hay ($3.00/bale)
- pellet feed ($8.00/bag)
- vegetables

I looked on the Petsmart and Petco websites and all of their hay was WAY overpriced. I typically buy Kaytee Brand hay from Walmart for about $3.00/bale but it is not on their website. Also, pellet feed is extremely varied. I will talk later about what makes a good pellet feed.

TOTAL: $11.00 +

4. My rabbit really likes these treats and store bought toys:

- Kaytee Healthy Bits ($1.49/package)
- Muchable Shred-A-Box ($4.69/package of 4 at Petsmart)
- Nature Ball ($2.99/ea at Petsmart)
- Carrot and Alfalfa Twists ($1.99/package at Petsmart)

TOTAL: $11.16

These are the basic stuff that you'll need for your rabbit. Please shop around for the larger items like the wire storage cubes, poultry fence, and the cage accessories because I am not sure these are the best deals.

Bunny Proofing

The two reasons to bunny proof your house are 1.) protection of property from damage, and 2.) reducing danger for your rabbit.

Wires. Make sure you use either spiral cable wraps, plastic tubing, or split cable tubing to cover up all electrical wires. It is a rabbit's natural instinct to chew through any sort of cord or string. This is so dangerous because a bunny can easily be electrocuted or burned. The three options are all effective but a determined bunny can always find a way to chew through anything that he puts his mind to. So, it's always important to supervise all bunny play times.

Spiral Cable Wraps ($4.50/10 ft)

Spiral cable wraps are pretty intuitive to use. All you do is wrap the spiral around the desired electrical cords or wires. The diameter of the spiral cable wrap is approximately 0.38" so it can probably only cover two wire (maybe three if they are really thin).

Plastic Tubing ($1.79/25 ft)

You can get plastic tubing from any fish or even hardware store. This tubing is typically used in fish tank air filters and water pumps. If you choose to use this, all you have to do is slit the tubing with a blade and tuck your wires into it. If you go to the hardware store, there should be a wider selection of tubes and you can choose the appropriate diameter for your needs.

Split Cable Tubing ($5.50/5 ft)

This is essentially the plastic tubing but it has already been slit. It's made of heavy duty plastic for outdoor use. Even if it's a little more expensive, it's a little more durable. The diameter of this tubing is 0.5" so it can fit a good amount of cords.

Deadly House Plants. There are some house plants that are poisonous to your rabbit. Make sure that he is not allowed to eat any of the following:

- Aloe Vera
- Amaryllis
- Flamingo Lily
- Angel Wing Begonia
- Chrysanthemums
- Kaffir Lily
- Poinsettia
- English Ivy
- Hydrangea
- Azalea

There are obviously other poisonous plants so be careful of what you let your bunny munch on!

Furniture. Rabbits love to chew on wood and they like to hide under couches where they can make a nest out of the underside of your cushions. To deter your rabbit from chewing on your nice sofa, put up blockades so that he cannot access the area. Also, put pieces of wood or cardboard that your rabbit is permitted to chew in front of your blockade so that he has something to chew that won't get him in trouble.